Before Queensferry: Shoreline, Settlers & the Roman Shadow

The Priory Church – one of the first stone buildings in the town and the site of the original Queen’s Ferry. The site occupies the same high ground that shaped the earliest settlement above the Forth’s shifting shoreline

A place like Queensferry still carries traces of its earliest shape if you know where to look. I first learned that walking the closes as a kid from Queensferry Primary, noticing how the land rises, folds and funnels you seawards. Those same contours shaped how people first approached the Forth long before any town existed.

Here, I’ll walk you through the shoreline, the first settlements, and the traces of Roman influence that shaped Queensferry before it even had a name. We’ll look at the land and how the geography made the town it perfect setting to cross the Firth of Forth. Follow the old paths people followed, and what little we know about life here before the Ferry was on any map.

Geography and Physical Setting

The earliest shoreline lay closer to the high ground around the Priory area, where a natural shelf provided one of the few predictable landing points. Much of the surrounding land was marsh, rough grazing and scrub, restricting movement inland. Any settlement would have clung to these firmer margins simply because the terrain allowed little alternative.

The northern edge confronted an unsettled sea, with storms regularly reshaping the foreshore. Oral tradition and later records indicate that even modest tidal shifts could isolate low ground, reinforcing a pattern of habitation on raised positions. These physical pressures meant early occupants had to choose elevated locations long before formal structures appeared.

Sedimentary features around the Binks and adjoining rock shelves offered the closest thing to reliable footing. Even centuries later, the iron mooring ring on the Binks hints at a much older pattern – a landing site determined not by design but by geology. Early settlers would have identified these same shelves as their safest access points.

Terrain, Access and Natural Constraints

If you head south from where the High Street now runs, the ground rises up into moor, woods, and soggy patches. It was tough land to work, so people stuck to the few rough tracks that were already there. Even the Romans, when they showed up, had to work with what the land gave them.

Movement inland relied on narrow strips of workable soil and animal tracks forming the earliest access routes. These passages were shaped more by avoidance of marsh, thicket, and sudden changes in level than by planning. Any settlers navigating between shore and upland would have repeated the same limited paths generation after generation.

The shoreline itself provided both opportunity and danger. Storm surges regularly altered small bays and inlets, restricting where boats could land consistently. The safest approach lines lay near the Priory shelf and Binks ledges, effectively fixing the earliest human approaches to a few narrow corridors dictated entirely by geography and tide.

How the Forth Shaped Early Life

The Forth was wide and tricky, so people always looked for the shortest and safest place to cross, long before Queen Margaret made it official. The Binks was the only spot you could really count on for small boats. For early communities, the estuary was mostly a barrier—something you crossed only if you had to.

Fishing in the earliest period was modest and opportunistic. Primitive methods depended on tides rather than technology, reinforcing a subsistence pattern rather than an organised trade. The estuary’s volatility meant no early harbour development survived, yet its proximity determined that any settlement had to engage with the water regardless of risk.

Over time, the Forth became the axis around which all local movement revolved. Even centuries later, the first substantial town buildings grew near the Priory, confirming that the shoreline’s natural advantages outweighed the challenges. The estuary dictated orientation, economy and travel long before written accounts described the area.

Maps, Surveys and Early Descriptions

Roman activity across the central belt left few direct records here, yet their construction of the Antonine Wall and connected routes suggests a broader regional footprint. They introduced rudimentary road systems and some measure of order, offering the first identifiable framework for movement near the future of Queensferry.

Medieval records describe the area as thinly settled and mostly wild, with just a few patches of good land. That matches what you can still see: people built along the rock shelves, on lighter soils, and along the old routes between Dalmeny, Abercorn, and the shore. The land didn’t give themw  much choice.

Old estate papers and parish records list place names from Gaelic and Anglo-Saxon times, showing that people were here long before anything was written down. These names are clues to how people moved, owned land, and lived, even if nothing physical is left.

Social Structure and Community Life

Before Queensferry was a town, it was a patchwork of quiet clearings and kin groups — no streets, no market, no one calling it anything yet. People lived where they could dig, fish, or shelter from the wind. Neighbours weren’t far, but it wasn’t a village. It was survival with a view.

Christianity didn’t arrive with ceremony — it crept in, slowly. A missionary here, a carved stone there. Places like Dalmeny and Abercorn started to matter, not because they were busy, but because they had something the scattered farmsteads didn’t: structure. Words, rules, and people who seemed to know things.

That’s when the isolation began to crack. Bit by bit, folks crossed the water to trade — not much, maybe smoked fish or rough wool, but it was enough. Those tiny exchanges did something bigger: they stitched the shoreline into a loose net of people who needed each other. Long before anyone called it Queensferry, the crossing was already speaking for itself.

Movement of Goods and People

People didn’t cross the Forth for trade at first — they did it because they had to. Visiting family in the north, a seasonal run for food, a chance to find something the other shore had and theirs didn’t. It wasn’t commerce. It was necessity.

The land didn’t offer many choices either. Inland routes followed the high ground, dodging bog and woodland where they could. Old ridgelines and sloped margins became the natural tracks – worn in long before anyone thought to call them roads.

Even the Romans, for all their planning, bent their lines to the land here. That tells you something: these paths weren’t drawn on maps – they were carved by feet that didn’t have time to argue with the terrain.

Boat landings at the Binks represent continuity between undocumented pre-medieval movement and later structured ferry operations. The physical evidence – rock shelves, protected angles and surviving mooring features – suggests this was always the practical choice for crossing attempts, regardless of the era.

External Forces Shaping Queensferry

The Romans brought order, the Saxons brought language, and the early church brought rules – all of it layered on top of a place that still didn’t call itself a town. But bit by bit, those outside forces shaped how people lived, spoke, and worshipped. Even with barely a settlement on the map, the shoreline felt their reach.

Centuries later, trade swept in from northern Europe — bigger ships, bigger stakes. But by then, the shape of things was already set. The Forth was always going to be a crossing — not because someone chose it, but because the land gave no better option. The world didn’t change Queensferry. It just caught up with what was already there.

Cultural influence followed trade. New ideas filtered through long before permanent structures appeared in Queensferry. This steady accumulation of external pressures – language, belief, trade and authority – quietly prepared the ground for a more organised settlement when conditions finally allowed.

Traces in the Modern Town

Modern Queensferry still leans into the land it came from. The High Street isn’t laid out — it follows. It hugs a strip of solid ground that was there long before stone met trowel. The closes and wynds aren’t quirks of design — they’re the old squeeze-points between rock and soil, carved out by where people could go, not where they wanted to.

Even now, the shelves above the shore decide where houses and buildings are build. Just like the old boats, the town follows the shape of the ground and shoreline. Have you noticed the terraces on the high street? Build due to the slope up to the Back Braes. You can layer centuries of change on top, but the bones of the place don’t shift.

And the names? That’s where the past still whispers. Bits of Gaelic hang on like moss, older than English, older than memory. Every street sign is a small clue – not to what’s here now, but to who was here first.

Setting the Stage for Later Growth

The constraints and opportunities of this early landscape shaped every later phase of Queensferry’s development. Limited access channels encouraged linear building patterns. Shoreline shelves fixed crossing points. Early religious and linguistic influences seeded the frameworks of later authority and community life. All later growth rested on these foundations.

As the region’s connection to wider trade networks expanded, these inherited patterns became advantageous. The natural crossing point gained formal status, the scattered hamlets coalesced into a recognisable settlement, and gradual consolidation set the trajectory towards a burgh. The town’s future was already latent in its earliest geography.

The land shaped the town long before it had a name. The slope, the shore, the scraps of belief and language – they all set the terms. Queensferry didn’t pop up by chance. It grew in the only place it could.

Once you understand that, the rest makes sense. The streets, the crossings, the stubborn shape of the town — all of it traces back to this early ground.

Next, we step into the first records — when the place stopped being a landscape and started becoming a community.

About the Writer

I’m not a historian in an office. I grew up in South Queensferry, sat in the classrooms at Queensferry Primary and Queensferry High, and spent years working the closes and lanes while running a window-cleaning business. Most of what I know about the Ferry didn’t come from books — it came from neighbours, older hands, and the people who remember how things used to be.

This companion pulls those lived voices together. It’s the Ferry as I learned it — walked, heard, and worked through, season after season.

Hero image: James Denham, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons.